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At Jadlam Racing Models we enjoy playing with toys and games as much as you do, however we know that some of the products we sell are quite complicated and can be a pain to set up.
So we have created this page to give you a helping hand and answer any questions we think you may have about our products and how to set some of them up. If you have any questions which haven't been answered on this page head over to the Contact us page.

Check out our   channel for videos of our products.

Click on a logo below, which will take you to the relevant section





Convert to Digital!
It's easy to convert to Scalextric Sport Digital(SSD), all you'll need are new controllers / hand throttles and a powerbase + transformer.

 Your 'analogue' cars will not run on digital, but most recent cars are convertable using a retro-fit chip. Some soldering may be required, and you may need to drill a small hole in the base for the sensor, but the latest generation of cars have a slot for the chip.

 

 

Your Scalextric Sport Track will be fully compatible, but for earlier Scalextric classic track will need to add 'Converter Sections'. There are sensors in some sections of track that see the cars as they pass over them, to enable lap counting, lap timing, and control over the points in the lane changers.

The benefits are huge. You can race up to 6 cars on the same track. With a lane changer cars can swap lanes at the press of a button, with several lane changers you can introduce overtaking to your fun. With a Scalextric racing curve cars will change lane automatically. The hand throttles have dynamic braking at the press of a button. You can pre-set numerous different racing modes in the Powerbase, incl. Laps, Timed & Pursuit. The most recent addition is the Scalextric Pit Lane, with endless possibilities for design of the single lane entry and exit.

There are several ways to start. Buy the C7011 or C7040 Conversion Kit, or add in one of the race ready boxed sets to your existing layout. If you are worried at all about what to do, please give us a ring.

 

 The truly stunning SSD race circuit at Scalextric headquarters; used to test drive new cars and track sections.

 

The new Easyfit Digital Plug System

The Scalextric Digital Plug is a revolutionary device, which will enable simple ‘plug and play’ conversion for all Digital Plug Ready (DPR) cars. The Scalextric Digital Plug is installed simply by unscrewing and removing the blank panel on the DPR car and replacing it with the Digital Plug. Screw the new panel back into place and your DPR car is converted to Digital in less than 60 seconds!

The Scalextric Digital system offers multi-car racing (up to four cars on just one lane!) with interactive lane changing functionality, allowing racers to over-take, introduce pitstops and even the ability to out-brake competitors into the corners!


Digital Frequently Asked Questions

Q. Sport Digital - Can I use old track with Digital?

A. Yes, but you can not use the old power base or transformers. Only use the Digital power supplies (C7024) provided.

Q. Sport Digital - Starter or Conversion set?
A. The conversion kit (C7040) contains the bare minimum required to convert your current track to Digital. A complete digital set has all the pieces included with the Conversion set also additional track and includes at least 2 digital cars.

Q. Sport Digital - Basics - How many lanes are used?

A. Only a two lane system is currently available

Q. Power - How many power supplies are required?

A. One digital power supply (C7024) is suitable for up to four cars. Two power supplies are required for five or six cars. It is perfectly OK to use two power supplies for a single car or any number of cars. It is also OK to use just one power supply for 6 cars but top end performance may suffer on large circuits.

 Q. Power - Can I use old power supplies?

A. No. You will damage the Sport Digital unit if you use an old transformer. Always use the recommended digital power supply (C7024).

Q. Cars - One controller moves all the cars.

A. A controller, plugged in to socket '1', will control any or all cars that have an ID of 1. 1/ It is OK to drive more than one car with one controller. 2/ If you only want to drive one car with one controller (normal operation) then remove all cars with an ID of 1 from the track except the one you wish to continue racing. 3/ If you wish to race one of the cars with an ID of 1 but using a controller plugged in to socket 2 then you must program the chosen car to have an ID of 2. To do this follow the instructions in the Sport Digital manual. The basic steps are: a/ remove all cars from the track, b/ replace the chosen car on to the track, c/ use the Sport Digital power base menu system and select 'Car 2', 'Set ID' sub menus and set the ID to '2'. Exit the menus. d/ Plus a controller in to socket 2 on the Sport Digital power base. Controller 2 will now drive the car with ID 2. Car 1 can be replaced on the track and controller 1 will operate Car 1.

Q. Digital Chip - retro fit location.

A. When retro fitting a Digital chip to a Scalextric car ensure that the chip is positioned as close behind the guide blade as possible. In theory, the chip can also work in front of the guide blade as well as just behind. When fitting the sensor chip behind the guide blade consider the distance between the car sensor chip and the lane change flipper and the distance between guide blade and flipper. Guide blade to flipper should be the greatest distance possible. The longer the distance the chip is situated behind the guide blade will result in the guide blade being closer to the lane change flipper before the sensor actuates the lane change flipper. This will increase the chance of the car not changing lane when driving at high speed. Therefore, fitting the sensor chip close to the guide blade ensures the correct distance between guide blade and lane change flipper. Additionally, the sensor should also be placed in the chassis so that it is immediately above the track slot. This is normally on the centre line of the car chassis.

Q. Digital Chip - Magnet location

A. The magnet doesn't affect the sensor. There are no restrictions on the location of the magnet.

Q. Digital Chip - black & blue guide blades.

A. When converting a car for digital operation note that BLACK guide blades are recommended. Blue, red, white and many other guide blade colours are invisible to the infrared sensors in the Sport Digital power base. Black short stem guide blades will be available in the Sport Digital range of accessories.

Q. Digital Chips - 'Saloon' or 'F1'?

A. Either Chip can be used on a chassis, space permitting. Their descriptions of 'F1' and 'Saloon' only reflect their general suitability for a chassis; the 'F1' chip being long with an elongated sensor board wire and the 'Saloon' chip being a more compact but larger unit.

Q. Digital Chips - Car/chassis 'Upgrade' descriptions.

All cars can be upgraded. However, some need a great deal of hobbyist skills and other are a simple 'plug and play' affair.

 

The digital chassis descriptions:

DIGITAL READY CHASSIS: From 2004-2007...

Some cars made over the past three years have the mount points for the digital chip to make the upgrade easier for the customer. The use of a screwdriver and soldering iron is required. The conversion may take 30 minutes to undertake.

DPR: From 2007 onwards...

Cars that have a DPR chassis accept the new digital plug. Most cars made from 2007 onwards will be designed with a DPR plug. This is a very easy to use plug and play design that makes inserting a chip a 30 second job.

 Q. Track - Power dips and breaks.

A. When a car stops on circuit this always indicates TWO breaks in electrical continuity since electricity travels in both directions around the track. If there was only one break then you would not notice it as electricity would have flowed from either direction! The way to correct this problem is to disconnect the track behind the power base. Then drive a car forward at a slow speed. When the car crosses from one piece of track to the next there should not be a drop in power/speed. If there is a drop or loss in power, then fix the track connection. Disconnect both track pieces (the track piece immediately before and after the fault). Turn them over and ensure that the metal rail tabs at the ends of the rails (there are 8 of them on every track piece) are fully pressed and clamped down to the plastic. Use a stout screwdriver or similar to push them tight. Reconnect the track pieces and retest by placing the car back at the power base and again drive the car slowly forward until you meet the next reduced or lost power section. Continue the above repair process until you get to the last track piece and then reconnect the last track piece to the power base.

Q.RMS - Can I use RMS with Digital?

A. RMS is not compatible with Sport Digital for the casual Scalextric user. Technically, you can still use RMS. There's no reason why you can't use RMS as a secondary Race Control tool. You must still use the RMS half-straight if using RMS AND their are some limits and considerations: For instance, Arcade mode can be used by one driver with one car. The eventual result is displayed and then the next attempt is made to beat that result by the next or same driver. Digital and RMS can be used to clock the laps for the car BUT, for RMS to be correct, you must drive through the same RMS slot sensor on every lap. When using more than one car in a race, RMS will not know which car goes through its lane sensors if cars are changing lanes. So, if you want RMS to count each car correctly you must drive the car with ID 1 through Lane 1 to register a lap for car 1. Otherwise the car with ID 1 going through RMS lane 3 would clock up a lap for car 3 on RMS. Not what you might want - but it could be a basis for an exciting game in itself!

 

Videos:

''How to replace braids / contacts''

 


''How to set up Car ID's on the new 6 Car Powerbase C7042''

 

 

 

 

Click to see more Scalextric Videos

 

 

 





The new Hornby system differs from the conventional type of 12V system by controlling individual locomotives rather than controlling their speed and direction by varying the current to the track.

Hornby 'Select' and Hornby 'Elite' digital units supply the DCC signal to the rails at all times. The DCC signal provides both power and information to locomotives and accessories that are on or connected to the track.  Each locomotive that is DCC controlled must have a small micro processor - or decoder - fitted internally. This decoder is capable of ‘listening’ for information or messages are unique to the loco.

This unique ’addressing’ of a decoder enables several locomotives to be moved individually on the track and at the same time, without the need for complex wiring and isolating sections!  The decoder may also be able to operate lights, fans, and other locomotive features, and will also keep the loco running at a set speed no matter what gradients or loads the model encounters.

The Hornby digital system can also operate points and electrical accessories, in a similar way to controlling a locomotive. A special decoder can be fitted to a section of track close to a chosen point, signal or accessory (or up to four points) and by ‘addressing’ the decoder, the item can be changed through the DCC controller.

The Hornby 'Select' and Hornby 'Elite' digital units when connected to the track pass not only a constant 15v AC along the rails, but also information signals to all locomotives that are on or are connected to the track. Each locomotive that is DCC controlled must have fitted internally a small micro processor based receiver called a Decoder. This Decoder is capable of "listening" for information or messages which refer to the locomotive that the decoder is fitted to.

Using the keypad that is on both the 'Select' and 'Elite' Units locomotives can be "called up" individually and operated just like the real thing. Imagine a busy marshalling yard where the locomotives are positioned close together and where by using either of the Hornby Digital Controllers, Hornby digital locomotives can be manoeuvered from one place to another without having to worry about the complexities of having to connect metres of wiring to a bank of switches and isolating sections and hoping the whole thing will work!

Hornby Digital Command Control Features:

  • Multiple train control on all parts of a model railway layout with minimal wiring
  • Independent control or double heading control
  • Coaches with lights stay lit even when the train is stationary
  • Realistic train movement with each model being able to be given levels of 1-99 acceleration/deceleration settings
  • LED display shows at a glance which locomotive is under control and with the Hornby 'Elite' even more information is available
  • Locomotive decoders are simple to code and program
  • The keyboard is straight forward to use making assigning a locomotive simplicity itself
  • Point operation means fewer wires than with a conventional control and no switches!
  • Facility on the 'Select' for a larger 4amp power pack -
    more power means more trains running at one time!
  • Designed to be NMRA compatible
  • The Hornby 'Elite' supports RailCom ID detection® Lenz Syztems
  • Both the 'Select' and 'Elite' support 14, 28 and 128 Speed steps
  • Xpress Net socket for layout development
  • The 'Select' may also be used as a Walkabout companion to the 'Elite'


Videos:

''Quick start guide for Hornby Select Controller''

 

 

 

''Quick start guide for Hornby Elite Controller''

 

 

 

 

Click to see more Hornby Train Videos.

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